We started with a very clean and straight 1973 Bronco that was picked up for $1,000.00, and stripped it to the bare frame. Our build plan includes a rebuilt 5.0 Mustang FI motor, a rebuilt C4 auto, an Atlas 3.8, 9” rear, HP44 front, 3 link front and 4 link rear on coil-over’s and a custom dash and cage.
We’ve gathered up a ton of parts sourced from BC Bronco’s and Wild Horses Four Wheel Drive, and have started the re-construction/build.
It’s common to find a little rust in the floorboards, and since it’s a 38 year-old truck we expected it. We sourced new floorboards from Wild Horses Four Wheel Drive and got busy. This isn’t a very difficult task, but it’s not necessarily fun either. Especially when we have all these other cool blingin’ parts in the shop ready for the build.
Knowing we had to get this done and out of the way, we put the body back on the frame and got to it. Having the body on the frame ensures everything will be correctly aligned, and since the forward body mount bolts go through the front floorboards and a cross-brace before getting secured to the chassis, we didn’t want any surprises later.
We laid the new floor pans in place and marked the edges. Then we cut the rusted factory pans out, and continued trimming, hammering and shaping until everything was aligned and straight, then welded everything in place. Easy enough to do, but a really time consuming project to do correctly. The Wildhorses 4×4 floor pans fit perfectly, and this made the job that much easier.
We're at the Fred Flintstone stage of the fix here, and still trimming, banging and fitting.
With the new pan tacked in place, Brett is using a body hammer and dolly to square the factory edges to the new pan. Be sure to use a good quality weld through primer prior to the final install or you'll be doing this again sooner than you think.
The finished floor replacement came out quite well, and they're most likely stronger than what the factory put out.
The frame rails on an EB are pretty narrow, so notching the frame is required. When we pull the body off we'll make a good solid fix here.
The factory transfer case hangs really low, so you'll need to fabricate a new crossmember/trans mount to clear the front output and have driveline clearance. We chose to re-use the center of the factory mount, and tube the rest.
Sheet metal work was required to clear the Atlas and the shifters. This was because we didn't want to run a 2" body lift as recommended by Advance Adapters. We think it turned out pretty well.
To follow more of this build, head over to www.crawlmagforum.com
I went to college with Brett and im super excited to see him getting a chance to to this build, especially for such an exelent publication. Fabrication is in his blood and his love for all things with wheels like myself, runs deep and pure. I cant wait to see the final product guys! Congrats Brett, on an awesome build and being a lucky bastard!
Mmm can’t wait to get er done
Like the photos of progress, keep up the great job with the mag.
I’m a 1971 EB owner and in the middle of a frame off build myself. Doing the 5.0 EFI swap, but mine is from a 1998 explorer. Is has a shorter front accessories set up for better fan/etc clearance. I had my tub blasted and am now working on the body work. I hate body work. How big a lift and tires do you guys plan on running? If its a sleeper, I’m guessing 37″ max. What mods are you making to the C4? I’ll be watching.
I think this is awesome. This is the first multiple article build i have seen for the EB Broncos. I am so excited to see what kind of direction you are going to take it. I love it because i am running 33 inch tires and have all of the Jeep guys standing at attention when i drive it on the trail. Would like to see something on the mustang 302 conversion. Because I am having trouble with mine and don’t know the firsat thing of trouble shooting it. But would like to say that what you have planned for this build it is going to awesome.
I would like to donate some parts to the build. I own a small company in tacoma wa and build custom offroad parts that are bronco spacific. Im big in to the local bronco comunity and would love to help out as best as I can with the project. Please contact me by email or call me at 206-769-6376 thanks Liam
’66 Bronco owner and casual piddler on mechanical upgrades. Looking forward to seeing your progress on the ’73 Bronco project.
Subscribed. Can’t wait to see the progress.
Keep the build pics comming. renewing my subscription because of this build!
Nice build! Can’t wait to see your progress. I have a ’73 crawler as well. ZF-5spd with a 4spd atlas behind it.
Was there a reason you didn’t do the clock-flat Atlas? My belly pan is completely flat and I am glad it is. Granted, I have a 2″ body lift, and still had to do some body work to clear the front output of the Atlas, but I am glad I did.
I scabbed on steel on the outside of the frame to maintain it’s strength. In retrospect, I wish I would have figured out a way to install the support in the inside of the frame so as to no interfere with future modifications. For instance, rock sliders; the won’t be symmetrical if I build them. I have a lot of pictures if you’d like to see them.
We didn’t want a 2″ body lift just to get the Atlas flat. It’s just barely below the frame rail now, and will be protected by a skid so we didn’t think the payoff was worth the effort. If we need to, we can always change it later if we have made a bad decision
Understood. There was a fair amount of body modifications involved in getting it to clock flat with 2″ of extra room. I did not have to modify the section between the seats, but it was close. Without the lift, you’d have to modify that.
Looks like you are using the factory transmission mounting holes in the frame. You might consider wrapping your side plates around the bottom of the frame to take the load off the bolts when you come down on that cross-member.
On my frame, I wish I would have welded in a 1/2″ “fish-plate” on the inside of the frame where I cut mine, then capped it off. I am anxious to see what you come up with!
Oh and thanks for the reply.
Looks good, I will be following this one….
Could not be more excited about following this build. In specific, I am looking forward to seeing the suspension set up you go with. I subscribed to Crawl to follow this build. I have a 76′ Bronco and am wanting a suspension setup that allows me to drive the highway as well as hit the trails. Great to see you guys take this on.
I love the build I also did the FI swap but I used a 351 out of a 90 Ford truck and got a adapter to put 5.0 mustang injection on it for the shorter plenum. I used a Ford racing harness and computer with mass air. Put a 23 gal fuel tank in rear with fuel pump in tank and this combo work awsome, fired right up! this is in my 69 bronco. My only question is what type of steering are you guys using? and What are you doin to reinforce the frame at the steerig box?
I am building a 73 bronco but on a budget, using a c6 with a 205 case, it fits in the frame but is close to the frame rail. I was going to notch it but it lands at the same place as the cage arm brackets I already installed before the drive train. I have been working on this for 9 years and want to finish it up this spring so my family and I can hit the trails. I have a 66 frame that is mint so I am going to use that instead of my 76 frame the bronco is on now. Plans are to move the front suspension up 2 inches and build my own arms for the back similar to the cage arms. drive train will be 351w, c6 with 205 3 linked front and rear both move 2 inches 5.5 lift from cage and a 3 inch body moving the stock mounts up on the frame no blocks. Just built my 4x4x2 steering box looking for info on how to plumb for hydro steer asist. Looking forward to following this build, Rock On
Shawn – that’s a lot of lift, what size of tires are you planning to run? Are you going to build your own arms for the front? If so, check out Battlement Fab in Grand Junction, CO as he has a kit with 2″ DOM, bushings, JJ’s etc. It’s what I’d call a Y-link, with one main arm down to the bottom of the axle and the top arm comes back to the lower arm for caster adjustability. I just installed his kit on my rig last spring and have been very happy with it.